Silver Lake
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Silver Lake: A Savory (and Thrilling) Lunch at Forage
Jun 21 2011
I complain a lot. But it’s mostly about one thing: my commute. If you already know me, then you know this to be a fact, and if you ever meet me, the subject will most definitely come up. I think I’m entitled, though, since I endure the dreaded Los Angeles east to west commute everyday.
Festering in traffic 2-plus hours a day is harrowing enough, but doing the math makes it worse: 12 hours wasted on a weekly basis. That’s why I rarely venture any further than Lincoln Heights on the weekends and compulsively dream of a job Downtown.
This being my lot, I relish the rare opportunities I get to work from home. Avoiding the drive is a treat, but even sweeter is the chance to lunch in the eastern hemisphere of LA…on a weekday! Just last week week, such an opportunity arose and I found myself at Forage in Silver Lake.
It was kind of thrilling to be so far east of Santa Monica at 1 o’clock in the afternoon on a Thursday. So thrilling, in fact that I got a little out of hand and ordered the ham and cheddar bread pudding. Though a little salty for my tastes, every rich and savory bite was joyous. The slab they piled on my plate was remarkably moist inside (is there egg in that thing?), with a crispy baked top crust and thinly sliced ham pieces with a nicely seared texture—no flimsy, soggy pork here.
To squeeze in a bit of nutrition, I chose kale salad and beet and citrus salad as my sides. However, seeing as the kale salad had a parmesan bread crumb topping (a perfect texture contrast for the kale) and the beets had more cheese, I barely fooled myself.
But, I was celebrating my freedom from the 10 freeway so…
—Valentina
Silver Lake: BOMB! Salads at the Farmers’ Market
Apr 12 2011
UPDATE: BOMB! Salads is now BOMB! Foods, but you can still find them in the Silver Lake Farmers’ Market.
When Rowan Moore Gerety wrote me, he had two questions: a.) had I tried Tacos La Fonda in Glassel Park and b.) did I know about his salad stall at the Silver Lake Farmers’ Market. The answer to both questions was no, but I was easily lured by his description of BOMB! Salads—fresh salads made to order with produce purchased on the spot.
Sign me up.
Every Saturday until 2pm, Gerety and his business partner, Jesse, (who’s taking over while Gerety is away on assignment in Mozambique) whip up salads, soups and mashed potatoes from scratch. The menu and ingredients change depending on what’s in available at the market. On my visit, I tried two salads: one with chopped broccoli, julienned apples and cilantro (pictured above) and another with curly kale, gold beet, dandelion and cucumbers. Both were really delicious with a light dressing of sunflower with lemon and yellow mustard on the kale and green pea and peppercorn on the broccoli salad. The crunch factor of both salads (super fresh!) was a plus, and the plate-sized portions were a fair deal for $6.
LA’s Best Kept Burger Secret is at Silver Lake’s Cafe Stella
Dec 10 2010
If there’s one thing to be proud of as an Angeleno, it’s our burger heritage. Let the New Yorkers and Chicagoans ridicule our pizza. We can take it because neither can touch the prevalence of good burgers in LA. Not even close. You can get a fine burger fix in almost any pocket of our fair city. Heck, maybe the whole county—even Norwalk, the none-too-culinary suburb where I grew up, has at least three decent charbroil places that I can think of.
We’re blessed with burgers.
Breaking the Curse: FOOD+LAB Comes to Silverlake
Nov 19 2010
The space that houses the newly opened FOOD +LAB might be cursed. A few doors down from Dusty’s, near the corner of Sunset and Descanso, the teeny storefront was most recently occupied by the very short-lived Meet Market and Flore Café before that. If not cursed, it’s not exactly lucky.
Yet, despite the open-and-shutter reputation of its address, FOOD+LAB’s future looks bright. For one thing, this is the third installment of the mini chain founded by mother-son catering team Esther and Nino Linsmayer—they also have a location in West Hollywood and a kiosk in the Pacific Design Center. For another, their menu is innovative and full of the fresh, organic ingredients that everyone seems to be craving these days.
Currently serving breakfast and lunch (a dinner menu is coming soon), FOOD+LAB offers a long list of traditional sandwiches with major personality. Think: Organic Turkey with pear, honey, and fig compote; Austrian Meatloaf with dried tomato aioli, fried onions and Dijon; Grilled Cheese with three fancy cheeses and caramelized onion. Vegan and vegetarian options are also available.
I ordered the Egg Salad Sandwich with asparagus on 5 grain bread. No complaints. It wasn’t overrun with mayo and the asparagus had a nice snap to it. The mayo-chicken ratio was a little off on the Pulled Chicken Salad, but the additions of apples, grapes, candied pecans and mandarins saved it. For better or worse, the portions are huge.
The chalkboard menu also features complete coffee selection and a range of fresh juices. I had the lemonade, which was pretty thick and easily split (and diluted) to make two full glasses. Also squeezed into the small café is a market section of sweets, teas, coffee and other tantalizing goods to take home.
Sandwiches: $8-12; Organic Salads: $11-13; Breakfast: $5-12.
-Valentina
FOOD+LAB
3206 West Sunset Blvd (Map It)
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Best Sunset Junction Ever: Mussels and Margaritas
Aug 24 2010
Sunset Junction just kind of happened to me this year. I almost never go for all the complainy reasons you can imagine, but this year, a friend gave us some free passes. That seemed like a good deal, so we hopped on the train to see what was doing in Silverlake.
We did go into the fest for a while and even watched a band. However, most of our time was spent recoiling from the sun (I was really getting used to this “no summer” scam we had going) indoors and in the company of good food and drinks, an action for which we have no regrets! In fact, I think this was the best Sunset Junction ever.
The Red Line stops at Sunset and Vermont, just a short walk to where the festival starts. The best part of the trek is that it put El Chavo in our path. We had to stop in. Their bar, in all its 1970s Mexican restaurant decor glory, is one of the best places to have a drink in LA, especially on a Sunday afternoon when the crowds are non-existent. The margaritas were strong, the salsa was hot and the somberos florescent. It’s just what we needed before stepping into the fest.
After about an hour of walking around, taking in some live music, and wondering who in their right mind would risk their lives on those rickety rides, we headed over to Cafe Stella for some (more) restoration. The French bistro fare offered at this smallish restaurant is always solid, and the atmosphere, which is low-key in the evening and lively at night, is usually what I’m in the mood for.
Avoid the Malo Scene. Go for Bueno Brunch.
Jun 30 2010
I’ve always liked Malo, but I really don’t like the crowd it has been attracting. Sounds snobby, I know, but the last time I was there on a Thursday night, I had to endure a table of loud/flashy/drunk executive types, who harassed the waitress, hit on other diners and made a general ruckus. It’s depressing—like when a band you like blows up and suddenly you have to share them…with people you don’t like.
The problem is that I don’t want to give up on Malo. Even after all these years, I still crave their Ground Beef and Pickle Tacos (pictured) more than is dignified. But, if I’m spending more than a few bucks and a few minutes in a restaurant, I also crave a good vibe. And all the Habanero Creme Salsa in the world won’t make up for a bad one.
So, what’s my solution?
Brunch. I’ve been a few times now, and it’s freaking delightful. The atmosphere is laid back, service is extra attentive, and there are Bloody Marias to boot! Could you ask for more on a Sunday morning? There are even open tables on the patio. It’s completely different from the nighttime Malo.
Another high-point is this Pozole dish that’s on the brunch menu. It’s a tasty rendition of the popular soup, complete with poached eggs—like Mexican Hotpot. Lots of smoky flavor. My grandfather’s wife, a pretty traditional Mexican cook, said about this dish: “I don’t know why there are eggs in my pozole, but I like it.”
My grandfather is a Mexican dude from LA, and he was impressed by Malo’s salsa. So, maybe the astronomical price (4 for $12—Ay yi yi!) is worth it.
You can get the Cucumber Tomato Salad at night, too, but the orange-flavored dressing works better in the AM.
-Valentina
3 Good Bloody Marys: Top Picks in Silverlake & Highland Park
Jun 23 2010
A good mimosa is redundant. You can use the cheapest champagne and any old orange juice, and they’re still alright. But a good bloody mary is a rare and glorious thing. It requires balance—enough vodka to give it punch, enough tomato juice to give it body, enough Tabasco to give it kick, and enough worchestershire (or reasonable alternative) to give it character. A lot of things can go wrong.
Here’s my list of eastside restaurants that get it right:
Edendale Grill (pictured): This is one of my go-to brunch spots for two reasons: the ivy-clad patio all tucked away in the quiet part of Silverlake and the magnificent bloody mary. It’s one of the best I’ve ever had with lots of spice and enough ice that it stays chilled to perfection but doesn’t get watery. Plus, they garnish with lemon, lime and three olives! They used to include celery, but for some reason, they’ve stopped, which is slightly disappointing but not a deal breaker. About their food, it’s not spectacular, but they assemble a satisfying bagels and lox plate, and their BLAT is one of my faves.
3 Good Veggie Tacos: Top Picks in Silverlake & Eagle Rock
Jun 06 2010
I like a good al pastor, but I also love a good veggie taco. Lucky for us, they’re finally showing up on LA menus. What’s exciting is that the newness of the veggie taco’s popularity means there’s wide open terrain for restaurants/taco trucks to experiment.
Here are a few places that seem to be inspired:
Flore Vegan—3818 West Sunset Boulevard
Flore makes a lot of great stuff that even non-vegans are into. I like their Eastsider Taco (pictured above). I don’t always enjoy meat substitutes, but the chopped seiten really works in this taco thanks to it’s smoky flavor and the way it plays off the tangy cilantro cream. The tortilla is cooked to a slight crisp, adding a good crunch. The pico de gallo could use a little more spice, but that’s just a small strike against it.
